Sunday, September 18, 2011

Hometown tourist


Sometimes it takes a visitor to make you realize how lucky you are. We live our busy lives so much on automatic pilot that the special things are not fully appreciated.

A visit from my sister, who had not been in New England for many years, gave us the opportunity to play tour guide and gain a fresh appreciation for what we have.

Hot dogs at Tex Barry's, dinner at the Heritage Tap in Pawtucket, picking up milk at Briggs Corner Store, breakfast at the Little Falls Bakery in Pawtuxet Village RI, dropping off the dry cleaning at Hank's, a quick haircut at Barberettes on Central Avenue, caused her to exclaim "You live in a virtual village!" Indeed.  After many years, these folks have all become our friends, not just nameless faces. They have become an important part of the fabric of our lives, sharing a smile, appreciating our stories, and enquiring after our stalwart sailing companion Yogi. Just like a real village, these folks consist a network of friends who care about us, and in return for whom we care. Indeed.

Another benefit of playing tour guide is doing things we have never done before. For twenty years we sailed past and around Prudence Island in Narragansett Bay, but had never set foot ashore. It turns out that there is a clunky little ferry that serves Prudence, departing from Bristol harbor several times each day. On a perfect summer day we drive down through Rehoboth and make our way into Rhode Island and eventually, Bristol. The next ferry is at 3pm, so we have plenty of time to lunch at a waterside restaurant and observe the busy harbor. At the appointed time, we board the ferry and find a bench seat. A surprising, no, shocking number of vehicles are slotted aboard. We have seen the ferry from the water before, passing by, but did not realize that it could carry a dozen cars and trucks and a hundred passengers. Perspective is all, and once aboard we appreciate the bulk of a multi-tonned vessel.

The crossing to Prudence is fairly short, perhaps 30 minutes, with a lovely view of the receding Bristol shoreline and the ascendant Prudence hills. Upon landing, we find a small, multipurpose building housing the Post Office and a general store. The store provides islanders with groceries, hardware, snacks, dry goods, and fuel. For tourists, there are T-shirts, soda pop, and coffee. Yearning the latter, we ask for some and the charming 80-something clerk brews us a fresh pot. She is obviously a beloved fixture on the island.  We witness regulars asking after her well-being as they purchase their Shredded Wheat and pick up rental DVDs.

Although situated proximately between North Kingstown and Portsmouth, Prudence has a feeling of seclusion.  For the few year-round residents, students must take the ferry to attend school ashore. There is no access to the island but by boat, either ferry or private craft or water taxi.  The isolation is palpable, and makes one view the distant mainland shoreline with a certain detachment.  It is understandable that Prudence is popular for summer residents seeking respite from their mainland burdens. 

Setting out south on the east shore road, we encounter a lighthouse which, in the days before LORAN and GPS, was a crucial fixture for commercial shipping plying the bay.  But today it is abandoned, surrounded by salt grass and sea roses, a reminder of the rugged seafarers who supplied our growing cities and exported the fruits of our mills.

After several hours of hiking and enjoying both wild and cultivated floral displays, we return to the ferry and make our way back to Bristol.  The ferry is nearly empty as, on this summer Friday evening, most folks were headed out to the island, not back to shore.  The landing in Bristol is uneventful, and a short 45 minutes later we are home and preparing a wholesome spaghetti dinner. 

This day has been full of adventure and sights and experiences, a seemingly exotic journey only a relative few miles to the south. But for our visitor, we should not have undertaken it for perhaps another twenty years.

Saturday, September 10, 2011

Yankee serendipity


Who knows from where good fortune flows, whether heaven, or someone in it is smiling down on us, or what? A very early start to the day for a business meeting in the Hartford CT area, I leave with an hour to spare, the sun not yet risen. The plan is to take mostly secondary roads and avoid the hectic stress of the morning commute. Into Rhode Island, I head west on US Route 6, then take the scenic Hartford Pike (RI 101) which diverges in Scituate.

Having lived in the area for 26 years, I had never driven the Hartford Pike. I am rewarded in Foster, near the Connecticut border, by signs announcing Jerimoth Hill which, at 812 feet, is the highest point in Rhode Island. Note to self – a likely place to explore on some sunny, autumn Saturday.

The Hartford Pike soon becomes Connecticut 101, wending through forested hills, small villages, and the occasional farm. Continuing on US 44, Connecticut 74, and I-84 for a bit, finally ending up in Tolland, a peaceful community outside of Hartford. A stop for coffee, still running an hour early. Then a phone call – the meeting has been unexpectedly rescheduled.

Nothing to do but return home, but by which route? I could return the way I came, but something pulls me to explore. The Mass Pike is the quickest but clearly hectic and the most boring. Exiting I-84 in Sturbridge, I turn east onto US Route 20, hungry for breakfast. But franchise restaurants and fast food joints hold little charm. No, I am looking for a locally owned outfit, preferably an old fashioned diner.

Headed east, I enter Charlton and suddenly the vision of a classic “Worcester diner” appears on my right, nearly flashing by, but as no one is on my tail I am able to brake sharply and swing into the parking lot. It looks perfect, and promises to satisfy my jonesing for hot coffee and sunny-side-up eggs. Entering, I find my expectations wildly exceeded.

The Yankee Diner was manufactured by the Worcester Lunch Car Company in the late 1930s and wandered about central Massachusetts a bit before settling in this spot on US 20 in Charlton. The interior boasts a long counter populated with stools, several booths along the windows, a business-like hot grill, and a smiling, friendly staff.

The proprietor, Mike Plouffe, is himself of hearty Yankee stock, hailing from nearby Oxford. Mike has a long love affair with the culinary arts, starting with an eight year hitch as a cook in the US Army followed by classical training at the Virginia Culinary Institute. Mike has held several posts at top restaurants and, interestingly, a stint in Dry Tortugas cooking for Uncle Sam again, but always wanted his own place and jumped at the chance when the Yankee became available.

This combination of classic diner with culinary excellence is the wonderful surprise. Imagine homemade corned beef hash prepared daily from whole briskets, buttermilk pancakes made from scratch, and freshly baked biscuits. When a customer requests Hollandaise sauce for his omelet, Mike does not reach for a jar, but rather breaks two eggs, separates the yolks, adds freshly squeezed lemon juice and melted butter, and whisks over an impromptu double boiler. Voila, Hollandaise!

After a wonderful breakfast of eggs and home fries supplemented by a bottomless cup of coffee and engaging, friendly conversation, I continue east on US 20 to Massachusetts Route 146, then south to Rhode Island and shortly after, home. This day which could have been frustrating has instead offered new experiences, new sights, good food, and intriguing conversation with new acquaintances.

Good fortune may be subject to heavenly intercession, but we can lend a helping hand. If we shuffle our routines a bit, travel a slightly different path, and keep our minds open, even a mundane business journey can yield a day of surprise and contentment.