The dignity of work

Fisherman working on the Belize River.

Belize is the smallest of the Central American countries, approximately the size of Massachusetts. But with a population of 328,000, the interior of the state is largely empty, with a density more like that of Arizona.

Approaching Belize from the sea, one is struck by the beauty of the country. The Belize Barrier Reef, extending nearly 200 miles from the Yucatan Peninsula in the north to Honduras in the south, is one of the most significant coral reef systems in the world. Mangrove islands dot the coast, and manatees and dolphins roam the coastal waters and brackish rivers.

A former British colony, Belize is the only Central American country where English is the dominant language. The inhabitants are largely a mix of Mestizos, Creoles, Mayan, and an international blend of Chinese, Indians, and Anglos from Canada, England, and the United States.

It is impossible to describe Belize without mentioning the historically important Mayan ruins that bejewel the country. Impressive pyramids, temples, and tombs surround central plazas, built with construction techniques that are surprising even today. Mayan achievements in art, writing, architecture, and astronomy are impressive. If not for human sacrifice, this would have been a pretty cool era for a time traveler to visit.

In today’s Belize, the economy is a mixture of agriculture, forestry (logging), tourism, and manufacturing. Unemployment is estimated at 13% and there is a shortage of skilled laborers. That shortage may well be related to a literacy rate of only 77%.

But all of these facts and figures aside, what is it really like? Traveling the interior, one sees many small farms carved out of the forest. These are not the tidy farms of New England. The houses are small, raised on stilts to allow cooling air to circulate; there is no air conditioning. A few skinny goats populate the yard, keeping the vibrant jungle vegetation at bay. Piles of stones and rubble dot the perimeter and mounds of half-burnt logs smolder near the encroaching forest. A scatter of multicolored garments flutter on a line, drying in the sun.

This may seem a bit bleak, but that is our projection. We cannot imagine living in a tropical climate without air conditioning – how could we sleep at night? Could we possibly survive without washing machines and electric dryers?

But in fact, the people of Belize seem quite happy. A fisherman casting a net on the Belize River offers a broad smile and an affable wave. A construction crew laying hot asphalt on a steamy afternoon all beam and wave enthusiastically. A waitress in a back-country restaurant cheerfully serves wholesome chicken and beans and rice with a large smile. It must be something in the water – these folks are just downright friendly.

We ask our guide, of Mayan descent, to enlighten us. “Yes,” he explains, “the people are happy. You are seeing the dignity of work.”

The dignity of work. Indeed.